RED SQUARE This would be a worthwhile visit just for the view and the atmosphere on Moscow's main plaza. The menu is appropriately Russian and traditional. The emphasis is on fish and appetizers, though most dishes have a lighter touch than standard Russian restaurant fare.The delicate koulebiaka is a culinary feat of sturgeon blended with rice, cream, and spices, carefully baked inside a flaky pastry.
The appetizer (zakuski) menu has several versions of fish or meat in aspic, and vegetarian options such as mushrooms on toast. Musicians play traditional Russian stringed instruments some evenings; other evenings a soft jazz ensemble takes over. Address: 1 Red Square, Moscow Location: Enter through Historical Museum Tel: 095-925-3600
BELUGA The caviar is excellent and expensive, though not necessarily better than what you find in other top Russian restaurants. The bar's appeal includes the variety (which you normally find only in specialty shops) and the atmosphere's exclusivity. For a traditional Russian-style caviar experience, try it in tartlets or on mini-pancakes called olady. Address: 12/9 Spiridonevsky Pereulok, Moscow Tel: 095-411-4444 BON Bon suggests a gangster’s dream home as imagined by Philippe Starck. Curiously, the designer-clad crowds remain unfazed by the arsenal, and some folks even nod appreciatively at the weapons between bites of risotto. Address: Yakimanskaya Embankment 4, Building 1, Moscow, 109180 Tel: 495-737-8008
DROVA This chain of all-you-can-eat Russian eateries has helped bury the 2-hour lunch tradition. Moscow's workers dive into Drova at 1pm; load up on Russian coleslaw (kvashennaya kapusta), spicy red bean stew (lobio), and ground-beef kebabs; gulp down some tea; and are out the door by 1:30. Drova is a good place for tourists to sample several Russian dishes risk-free. Address: 24 Myasnitskaya, Moscow Tel: 095-925-2725
EASY FOOD The spacious restaurant tries for a homey atmosphere, with colorful pillows piled in the wooden booths and a vegetable garden theme that involves enormous wooden carrots hanging in the window. The menu is hard to pin down: The rabbit filet wrapped in bacon sounds aristocratic and is almost too rich to be true, the salmon broccoli salad is overcooked and the mushroom cream soup is just as hearty as any made by a loving Russian grandmother. Address: 4 Nikolskaya Ulitsa, Moscow Tel: 095-937-3469 EXPEDITSIYA The food is hit-or-miss, but the decor and inventiveness of the restaurant's creators make it an unforgettable stop on any Moscow tour. Address: 6 Pevchevsky Pereulok, Moscow Tel: 095-917-9510
GENATSVALE Come here for lunch or early dinner to avoid it. Try the three-cheese khachapuri, a kind of sauceless pizza; the finely ground lamb kebab; or the garlic-walnut paste rolled in thinly sliced eggplant. It's a good choice for vegetarians, who can easily fill up on a selection of appetizers. Address: 12/1 Ostozhenka, Moscow Tel: 095-202-0445
GOGOL Lurking behind an arch on a posh pedestrian street, this restaurant/bar/concert space is anything but chic. Food is basic and cheap. The pelmeny (small meat dumplings) are lightly spiced, juicy, and filling. There are plenty of vegetarian options, primarily on the appetizer menu. Address: 11/1 Stoleshnikov Pereulok, Moscow Tel: 095-514-0944 KIETZH Kitezh sees its purpose as upholding tradition and legend. If you have just one real Russian meal in Moscow, make it here. This is one of the few Russian restaurants that do justice to beef Stroganoff, which despite its Russian roots is more common outside Russia. The pikeperch is expertly seasoned and sauced. Desserts include thick, jello-like kisel, and light and buttery bliny with homemade jam. Address: 23/10 Ulitsa Petrovka, Moscow Tel: 095-209-6685
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